Worked on Left Wingtip

Now that I have a pretty good idea how the wingtip lights will be mounted, I could do the work on the other wingtip.  I marked and cut out most of the recess.

I then fabricated an approximate duplicate of the right mounting plate and then trimmed it to fit the left wingtip.  The two wingtips are slightly different, so I couldn’t make an exact duplicate.  I then transferred the plate mounting holes and the center set of light mounting holes.  You can see in the previous picture that I also drilled the plate to the wingtip.  All that is left now is to finish getting the lenses to fit properly.

New Fuel Pump, Wingtip Lights and Canopy Fairing

I got my replacement fuel pump from Andair, so I ran down to the hangar tonight to install it.  I pulled the old pump out and removed the fuel filter.  Since I’ve pulled fuel from both tanks, I wanted to clean the filter to remove any debris that might have made its way into the tank or fuel lines during construction.

Despite my best efforts to keep the tanks clean and sealed and clean the fuel lines before installation, there was a surprising amount of junk in the fuel filter.  I rinsed everything in a few ounces of gasoline.  It looked like mostly dust and small sandy particles, but there were a couple of small metal particles mixed in.  It’s good to get all of this out of the fuel filter before the first flight.

I lubricated the o-ring, safety wired the filter and reinstalled it on the pump.

Here’s the completed pump assembly with wires cut to length and a molex connector installed.

Finally, I reinstalled it in the plane and re-torqued all of the fittings.

Next, I installed the wingtip so I could get an idea how the light was aimed.  It looks pretty high, but I’ll need to level the plane to be sure.  I’m pretty happy with how bright this is.  Here’s the hangar across the way with the light on.

And here it is with the light off.

To get a better idea how the light is aimed, I pulled the plane out into the taxiway and put the tail up on my chair to get the fuselage level and then turned the light on.

I adjusted the light until the beam was roughly level.  You can see it does a pretty good job of lighting up the taxiway.

I walked to the far end of the taxiway to get an idea how much light was making it down there.  The picture doesn’t really capture it well, but it was uncomfortable to look directly at the light, even from this far away.

This picture of the shadows cast by my legs gives a pretty good idea how well the far end of the taxiway is lit up.

Finally, I resumed work on the canopy fairing.  I started with sanding the fairing down to be flush with the two layers of electrical tape and got the overall shape where I wanted it.  Next, I removed the upper layer of tape and sanded the fairing down again to be flush with the remaining tape.

After taping over the exposed parts of the canopy bubble, I mixed up some epoxy with black pigment and applied a sealer coat on the fairing.  After this cures, I’ll sand it down and apply a coat of primer.

Positioned Wingtip Lights

I spent a little time playing with the positioning of the landing lights.  They need to be far enough forward that I can access all of the mounting screws on the top and bottom, and the farther forward the lights are, the better they will illuminate the area right in front of the plane.  They can’t be so far forward that they bump into the lens though.  Since I still need to aim the lights, I needed enough clearance that the lights could be moved a bit.  I ended up moving them back about 1/4″ from where they are in this picture.  I’ve decided to just make the mounting plate sacrificial and use it to get the lights aimed correctly.  Once I’ve flown at night and am happy with the positioning, I’ll fabricate a new plate with only the set of holes I need along with the back plate.

Finalized Aileron Deflection and Canopy Sealing

I tried the modified tool and it works pretty well.  I’m going to do a little more adjustment on it so that it doesn’t hit the steel bracket and clears the universal rivet heads.

I wasn’t quite getting the aileron throw I wanted, so I switched to the smaller bushing I had.

Adjusting the aileron bolt required dropping the flaps.  I could almost remove the rod end that screws into the flap, but the pushrod hit the edge of the hole just before the bolt could slip out.  I sanded the hole a little bit larger, but kept it inside the black line I drew that showed where the flap overlap sits.  This covers the hole when the flaps are up.

In preparation for installing the weatherstripping that will seal the forward edge of the canopy, I fabricated a couple of strips to span the gap in the flange.  This way I can have a continuous strip of the weatherstripping across the entire edge.

Afterward, I used some Sikaflex to seal up all of the gaps.

Sealing around the canopy hinge is the most tricky, but I think this will do a pretty good job.

Landing Lights and Tool Modification

I fabricated the light side of the wiring harness today.

I wrapped the power board with some foam to protect it from vibration and stuffed it inside the light.  I stopped by the hangar later in the day to remove the canopy and tried out the lights.  Unfortunately, the right landing light was intermittent.  I ended up tracing the problem to a poor solder connection on one of the LEDs, so I re-soldered it.

With the right lens almost trimmed to final size, I decided to drill it to the wingtip so that I could install it in the same place every time during final trimming.

Torquing the jam nuts on the rod ends used as hinges on the elevators and rudder require a special tool.  I picked up a set of these offset wrenches from Harbor Freight yesterday and modified it to fit around the rod end.  I cut a slot in the end and reduced the thickness quite a bit.  I’ll try this out tomorrow and see how well it works.

Installed Wingtip Lighting Connectors

I trimmed the wires coming out of the wings and installed the connectors.  These are waterproof and should keep me from getting any corrosion in the contacts.  I also installed the connectors onto the remaining wire bundle that I cut off and will hook these up to the lights tomorrow.

Control Stick Grips and Wing Skin Screws

With the epoxy cured in the grip, I reinstalled them and tightened the set screws down.  The grips are rock solid now and don’t move at all.

Next, I installed the screws that tie the fuselage center section to the lower wing skin.  I had waited to do this until some shorter screws showed up.  Van’s uses -8 screws all over the airplane when shorter screws are sufficiently long.  I’ve tried to use shorter ones where I can to save weight.

Figured Out Light Mounting

I trimmed the lens a little more until it fit down inside the flange.

Instead of trying to sand the flange perfectly and then sand the lens to fit, I marked a line 5/8″ back from the face of the recess.

I’ll sand the lens back to this line and then apply filler so that the fit is perfect.

I used some scrap paper to make a template for the mounting plate.  This protrudes back inside the wingtip because the mounting bracket for the light needs to be recessed behind the plane of the other face of the recess.

Here’s roughly where the light will be mounted.  I’m going to fabricate this plate out of 0.040″ plate and see if that works.  There’s a good chance I might have to move up to 0.063″ plate if there is too much flex.  I’m going to leave the large gap around the light for now until I can fly at night and get the light aimed properly.  After that, I’ll fabricate a cover plate that just clears the light to cover the hole.

I held up a piece of scrap paper where the plate will eventually cover the gap to ensure that I’m not blocking the rearmost LEDs.  This position is perfect.  All LEDs are visible and I have plenty of clearance from the lens for adjustability.

Worked on Wingtips

With the plane at the hangar, there are only a few things I can work on at home.  One is the wingtips, so I resumed fitting the wingtip lenses.

The flange widths around the lens varied fairly significantly (from 18-23 32nds), so I marked and filed the flange on the right wingtip to a consistent width.

I trimmed the lens approximately to shape and then sanded each side so that the edges are nice and straight.  Once the lens fits on properly, I will apply some filler to the wingtip so that the gap is tight and uniform all the way around.

Fabricated Wingtip Hinge Pin Retainers, Installed Ribs and Sanded Fairing

Since the wingtip is held on with hinges, I needed a method to secure the hinge pins so that they can’t come out.  I fabricated these retaining blocks out of a chunk of Delrin that I machined down to fit inside the trailing edge of the wingtip rib.  It’s held on by an AN509-8 screw.

The screw screws into a nutplate mounted on the back of the rib and through the tooling hole that was already present in the rib.

In the sides of the blocks, I drilled a #43 hole and machined grooves aligned with the holes to capture the hinge pins.  I bent the aft ends of the hinge pins 90º so that they will go into the holes.

Here’s how they look when installed.  The hinge pins can’t back out of the block because they’re trapped by the flange of the rib.  The block also provides a convenient handle to extract the pins.

With those done, I primed the backside of the ribs and installed them with epoxy/flox and soft rivets.

I also sanded down the additional filler I applied yesterday.  I still need to apply some filler inside the gap, but the outside shape looks great.