Final Fitting of Lower Cowl Bottom Pins

I did a little further trimming on the bottom cowling to make an even gap between it and the firewall along the bottom, then installed all of the retaining pins.  Here’s all you see when you look up into the cowl exit.  Overall, I’m fairly happy with these.  The only complaint I have is that it’s fairly challenging to get the pins started because they have to lay just on the other side of these retaining clips.  I think I’ll get quicker at it, but it took me several minutes just to get these started tonight.

Fabricated Lower Cowl Hinge Pin Retaining Clips

I’ve been mulling over how to retain the bottom hinge pins on the lower cowl.  I wanted something that didn’t require any tools to remove but also wasn’t visible externally.  I finally stumbled on a solution that I’m happy with.  I fabricated a couple of clips that are riveted to the bottom flange of the firewall.  They started as 1/8″ thick flat stock that I filed to about half thickness where it rivets to the firewall flange.  It’s full thickness where the pin latches for added strength and bearing surface.

I then bent a couple of pins into this shape.

Here’s how the pin clips into place.  The lower part of the pin is hidden just inside the cowl exit, but it can easily be reached and released.  Since the notch is below the line of the hinge eyelets, you just have to flex the lower end outward and pivot it forward to release.

Sanded Upper Cowl

I took a short break from work tonight and sanded down the upper cowl.  This is to flatten out the layer of pure epoxy I squeegeed on.  I’ve only sanded this to 80 grit, but once I’ve done the same thing to the lower cowl, I’ll put both halves on the plane and block sand the whole thing down to 240 grit before starting with the filler primer.

Sealed and Filled Upper Cowl

I’ve been working 7 days a week right now, so I’ve hardly had any time to work on the plane. I was working from home today though, so I managed to squeegee on a few coats of raw epoxy on the upper cowl.  This fills all of the pinholes and seals the surface.  I’ll sand this flat and then apply some epoxy primer that will be the finish coat until the plane goes for paint.

Worked on Oil Door

The clearance around the oil door was a little tight.  I opened it up to prevent it from catching and to allow room for paint.

I’ll probably open this up a little more, but this is enough to allow it to open and close smoothly.

Painted Plenum

I’ve hardly had any time to work on the plane lately, but I wanted to wrap up painting the plenum.  After cleaning it thoroughly, I shot a few coats of epoxy paint that matches the powder coat.  There are still some minor scratches that show through the paint, but I’m going to call this good.

Fixed Brake Leak and Replaced Upper Oil Cooler Line

I’ve been absolutely swamped at work, so I’ve had very little time for the project.  Unfortunately, this is not going to improve anytime soon.  I did get a few new hoses from Brett at Bonaco, so I wanted to install them and see if this fixed my brake leak.  I installed the new brake lines and bled the system using the new brake bleeding system I picked up from Aircraft Tool Supply.  I pressurized the system and applied the parking brake.  As far as I can tell, the brake leak is fixed.

I also replaced the upper oil cooler hose.  The previous one I received from Bonaco had a problem that caused the hose to get twisted when I tightened it down.  Brett sent me a new hose for free, so I put that on and torqued everything down.

Sanded Filler Around Hinge Pin Covers

I sanded down the filler until I could just see the edges of the covers, then popped them out and cleaned up the edges.  They’re still sharp for now, but I’ll round them over before sealing the surface and priming.  You can also see a little divot of missing filler just to the left of the cutout.  This is because I didn’t apply filler over the joint between the upper and lower cowl halves because it would just glue the halves together and fracture anyway when I popped them apart.

I sanded down and cleaned the inside of the upper cowl, then applied a thin coat of epoxy with microlight to fill in the unevenness inside the cowl due to the honeycomb core.