My order from Avery Tools showed up today. One of the items was a cover for the tach port. This is used for a tach cable if you have a mechanical tachometer. The Dynon will get its RPM information from the Light Speed Engineering electronic ignition box. I safety wired this, but it really can’t prevent this from unscrewing since the center part of the cap is separate from the outer part. At least it would prevent it from falling off though.

I don’t know if the high pressure fuel screen will need to be cleaned frequently or not. If so, I might want to find another place to safety wire this to so that it doesn’t run across the fitting.

My daughter was a big help with this. She kept pointing to parts on the engine and asking “what’s that?”

I also removed the regular 45º fuel outlet fitting and installed a 90º tee fitting. The bottom silver part of the fitting will connect to the fuel injection system. The black fitting has a restrictor inside and will tie into the fuel pressure transducer.

I also got an order from Van’s that included the prop governor cable bracket. After some grinding of the inner radius and elongating a couple of the holes slightly, it fits quite well. I had to cut off the safety wire for all six screw holding this ring on so that I could rotate the head and control arm. I can’t determine the final position of the control head until my prop cable shows up next week.

Here’s the entire bracket. The cable housing attaches to a hole on the left side and the cable passes through the slot in the bracket.

I also got an order from Aircraft Spruce that included some steel fittings to replace the aluminum ones I had installed for the brake lines. I’m trying to use steel fittings for all firewall penetrations if possible.

My order from Avery Tools included a couple of firewall pass-throughs from SafeAir1. These have a stainless steel tube with a spun flange so there are no sharp edges. I installed them with some 2000º fireproof sealant and then installed the outer fire sleeve and clamps.

Here you can see through the pass-through. These each provide a 1″ opening for all of the wires that need to penetrate the firewall. I’ll use the one on the right side for all of the large power wires and the one of the left for all of the engine sensors. After the wires are installed, they’re wrapped tight with another piece of fire sleeving and some silicone tape and then pushed into the tube. The outer piece of fire sleeve is then slipped in place and the clamps are tightened.

I got my exhaust from Larry Vetterman today.  On Larry’s recommendation based on my engine and sump, I went with the four pipe system.  This is a little unusual for RV’s as it seems that most people go with the crossover exhaust which ties cylinders 1 and 2 together as well as cylinders 3 and 4 together resulting in two pipes exiting the cowl.  I’m glad I went with this system for a couple of reasons.  First, I just think it looks better with four pipes exiting the cowl.  Second, the cabin heat muff for the four pipe system passes the air over two pipes instead of one, so Larry claims that you get much more heat out of this system.  Here are the pipes as received from Larry.  The upper four pipes have the flanges on them which mount to the cylinders.  The lower four pipes have ball joints which gives the exhaust system some flexibility to prevent cracking.

Here is the cabin heat muff.

I loosely assembled the upper and lower sections for each cylinder.

The instructions call for using sheet metal screws to hole some of the parts together in the cabin heat muff.  The heat muff in our Cardinal is assembled this way and every time we open the cowl, there are a couple of screws missing.  The plans specify that you can optionally install nutplates, so I installed some K1000-06 nutplates and ordered some extra AN526C632-6 screws.

Here is the temporarily assembled heat muff.  The muff will surround the exhaust pipes from cylinders 1 and 3, and the air inlet and outlet are on the top.

Here’s the inside of the muff showing the nutplates on the top and bottom of the end caps and showing the rods that connect the two ends of the muff.  I’ll assemble this permanently once the exhaust is installed on the engine.