Firewall Forward Wiring

I finished the battery positive cable.  There will be a couple of adel clamps securing this to the adjacent engine mount tube to prevent the terminals from carrying the full weight of the cable.

I also fabricated the engine ground strap.  I used an empty hole near the oil filler neck which required removing all of the paint on the aft side of the boss.

Here is how the cable routes up to the grounding strap.  You can also see the battery negative cable here.  I can still easily remove the battery without having to loosen any cables.

I also put the fitting on one end of the starter cable.  I left the starter cable a little long since I’m not 100% sure of the routing right now.  It needs to pass through the same area as the mixture cable and bellcrank, so I want to have that in place before finalizing the routing.  You can also see in this shot that I added a washer under the fuel fitting.

I moved the 45º fitting up to the top port in the pressure transducer manifold and installed a 90º fitting in the bottom one for the fuel pressure hose.  I also installed a couple of polyethylene hose fittings in the top port.  One will route manifold pressure to the Dynon MAP sensor just to the left and the other will route manifold pressure to the Lightspeed electronic ignition.

I also spent a little more time playing with the locations of the various boxes that will mount forward of the subpanel and I think I came up with a layout that I like.  Here is where the Dynon EMS box will mount.  I separated the sensor wires from the 37 pin connector into one bundle that needs to penetrate the firewall and one that doesn’t.

Here is where I’m planning on mounting the Lightspeed ignition box.  This provides convenient routing of the primary ignition wires which will run alongside the battery and main bus power lines.

And here is where I’m thinking of installing the voltage regulator.  I can still easily reach the voltage adjustment screw in this position.  The only disadvantage is that I need to drill a few more holes in the firewall.

Installed Exhaust Gas Temperature Probes

I installed my EGT probes tonight.  Dynon recommends 2-8″ from the exhaust flange.  The precise distance isn’t important, but it’s very important that the distances are the same for each cylinder since that lets you compare EGT readings across cylinders.  Anything over 2″ on my exhaust setup would put the probes past the first bends, and it would be hard to remain accurate on the measurements.  These constraints pretty much dictated that my EGT probes would be at exactly 2″ from the exhaust flange.  I positioned the probes so that they stick straight out from the sides of the pipes.  I’ve seen a lot of builders angle these one way or the other to try and keep them from sticking out so far, but there is plenty of clearance from the cowl sides and this keeps them from interfering with other things like the lower spark plugs.

Here’s a closeup of the #2 probe.  Just like other hose clamps in the engine compartment, I safety wired them to prevent them from ever backing off.

Installed Sump Plug and Mixture Bellcrank

I received my AN932-5D plug from General Aircraft Hardware.  $17 bucks shipped was kind of a ripoff, but the alternatives would have been even more expensive.  I had to grind off about 3/64″ from the visible face here to get the surface flush with the sump.  After installing it, I used the touch-up paint that came with my engine to paint the exposed aluminum face to match the engine.  I then installed the mixture bellcrank to the sump.

I also regreased the pivot point and installed the cotter pins in the pivot bolt and the output bearing bolt.  The other end of the output shaft is still loose until I get the replacement servo arm from Precision Airmotive.

I’m pretty swamped with our developer conference at work, so progress will be slow for the rest of the week, but I’m still trying to get a few things done here and there.

Installed Spark Plug Wire Clamps and Forward Elevator Pushrod

I ordered some one and two wire spark plug wire adel clamps from Sacramento Sky Ranch.  The order came in today, so I installed some of them on the cylinders.  These are stainless steel with silicone cushions that are good to 400ºF.

The forward cylinders get one wire clamps.

The aft cylinders get two wire clamps.  These are sweet because they’re formed to clamp two wires instead of something cylindrical like typical adel clamps.  I picked up a few more of the two wire clamps to anchor the spark plug wires the rest of the way to the magneto.

I also cut down the rear spar a little bit where the forward elevator pushrod passes through.  The cutter got away from me a little bit and widened the hole as well on the right side.  I put a little self-etching primer on the cut edges.

I then temporarily installed bolts in each end to check the fit.  There is almost 1/4″ of clearance where the pushrod passes through the rear spar cutout.  Even under high g loads, the pushrod shouldn’t be able to flex enough to contact the spar.  This is the rear end where the forward pushrod attaches to the elevator bellcrank.

This is where the forward end attaches to the center control column.

Worked on Fuel Pump and Cabin Fuel Line

Our developer conference is finally over.  It’s great fun, but a lot of work and incredibly exhausting.  We launched the revolutionary new iPhone 4 which I worked on and I can’t wait to see how well it does in the market.

Anyway, I spent most of the day just taking it easy and hanging out with the family after not seeing much of them for the last week, but I did sneak out into the garage for a bit after everyone headed to bed.  First, I cut the forward cover in two so that the forward part could be easily removed without having to touch the fuel pump or fuel lines.  The aft part is still removable, but I hope that is almost never necessary.  I’ll run conduit under here so that I can run additional wires without having to remove this.

I also fabricated the fuel line from the pump to the firewall fitting.  I held off on this for a long time because I was trying to decide whether to put the fuel flow sensor here or after the fuel servo.  Most people seem to install it here, but claim that the fuel flow is incorrect when the electric fuel pump is on.  Some have also claimed that there is a small risk that this location could result in vapor lock since the mechanical pump is pulling fuel through the sensor.  The fuel flow sensor manufacturer recommends installing the sensor downstream of all pumps, and even downstream of the fuel servo for the most accurate readings.  Because of this, I’ve decided to install the sensor just after the fuel servo, probably just under cylinder 1.  With this decision made, I could go ahead and fabricate this fuel line.  One additional benefit I hadn’t really thought of is that this reduces the number of fuel fittings in the cockpit which theoretically reduces the risk of an in-cockpit fuel leak.

I ran the line on the left side of the bay since a large bundle of wires from the panel will enter this area just to the right of the firewall fitting and snake down under the forward cover and then under the aft cover.  Keeping the line to the left gives me a little more room to run these wires.

Aft Top Skin

My buddy Andre stopped by today and prepped the aft top skin for riveting.  We didn’t have time to get it riveted, but it’s clecoed on and ready to go for next time.

While he was working on that, I moved the tee in the static system up near the top of the bulkhead, right next to where one of the stringers will be installed.  Since I decided to mount my ADAHRS from the top rib between F-706 and F-707, I decided it would be simpler to run the static tubing along that top stringer and directly into the back of the ADAHRS.  This has the advantage that the static ports are the lowest portion of this part of the static system, so in theory it should allow water to drain out of the system and not make its way into any of the instruments.

I also worked on the forward half of the center cover.  I’ve enlarged the hole at the back half for the fuel line to drop through.  I’ll still need to enlarge it a little more to ensure it can never come in contact with the fuel line and abrade it.

More Work on Forward Covers and Fuel Selector

I put the forward spar covers in place.  These are supposed to fit under the front edge of the seat pan, but I put it on top initially so that I could match drill the seat pan to one hole in the forward spar cover.

Here’s a closeup of the hole that needs to be drilled.  A nutplate will mount on the spar cover and a screw will go through the seat pan and into this nutplate.  If I put the spar cover behind the seat pan, I’d be drilling this hole blind.

After match drilling those holes (one per side), I installed the nutplates and reinstalled the covers.  Next, I cut the flange off of the fuel selector mounting plate flush with the forward face of the fuel valve cover and cut a notch in the bottom of the fuel valve cover so that it could temporarily sit over the fuel pump.  I then took the fuel pump top cover that Van’s sells for the Airflow Performance fuel pump kit and figured out how low I could mount it.  Since the Andair pump kit is significantly smaller than the Airflow Performance pump kit, I had previously decided to lower the cover as much as possible.  This will require fabricating custom side pieces, but that’s pretty easy.

After determining the mounting point, I drilled the fuel pump cover to the fuel selector cover.

After enlarging the opening in the bottom of the fuel selector cover, I fit the flange from the fuel pump cover inside the fuel selector cover.  These holes will get dimpled and these pieces will be riveted together along with the side covers I need to fabricate.

Installed New Mixture Arm

The shorter mixture arm arrived from Precision Airmotive today.  I installed it and then spent a little time adjusting the various linkages to get proper movement.  Here is the linkage in the idle cutoff position.

And here it is in the full rich position.  The shorter throw meant I could easily go stop to stop at the mixture arm.  With the longer arm, I could either hit one stop or the other, but not both.

Here you can sort of see that there is plenty of clearance between the mixture arm and the starter now.  At its closest, there is at least 1/4″ between these two.  Since all of this is rigidly mounted to the engine, this is plenty to ensure that these will never make contact.

Riveted Spar Cover Attach Angles

I blind riveted the attach angles to the gear webs using LP4-3 rivets.  I had to grind down the tips of the rivets and pull them in small steps (pounding the rivets further in each time).

I also installed the nutplates using MK-319-BS rivets since there wasn’t enough room to get a normal rivet squeezer in here after riveting these to the gear webs (and the nutplates couldn’t be installed first since they would have interfered with squeezing the LP4-3 rivets).  I just realized that I forgot to cut the notch in these for the fuel line grommet.  I’ll have to do that in place.